going to see the Gorillas, given my limited time remaining.
Unfortunately for me, but more poignantly for the Gorillas, a month
ago when I asked for a permit, they told me they were fully booked and
to try again in October. Brutal. Apparently persistent badgering of
the ORTPN office in Kigali can often scare up an extra permit, but
being in Butare, my hands were tied. Next time I guess. I'd have to
settle for chimps, which is why I went to Nyungwe. Apparently for
them, you need your own 4x4 (200$ rental) and you have to stay on the
other side of the forest. Having neither of the above, the chimps also
missed out on my presence. It's like the primates didn't get the memo
that I'd be in the country. Damn dirty apes.
On the up side, at the Kitabi guesthouse, I met a fantastic couple
from Germany, Volker and Corinna, who have been living in the country
for the past year and a half. They were in the forest for hiking and
staying in the same little house as me. I think they took pity on the
rag-taggedness of my travel plans and invited me to come with them to
do a hike the next day. They then offered to drive me back to Butare
to pick up my gear, then maybe even back to Kigali and finally to stay
with them in their house, downtown Kigali. How could I say no?
We went on a 4 hour hike with a guide, Thierry, who was very
knowledgeable and accommodating of my questions. We hiked up, down and
around a few hills to a beautiful little waterfall. Unfortunately
there we saw no primates in the forest, but there were baboons at the
hotel and mountain monkeys on the road, so I was happy. It was a
beautiful jungle hike.
The trip back to Kigali was long but I was thankful for the ride, as
it probably cut 3-4 hours off my journey. Volker and Corinna's house
was beautiful. They live in a walled compound, like most houses in
Kigali, with a security guard 24/7. The house was beautifully
decorated with African furniture and art and my hosts were warm and
welcoming. I am indebted to them for all their hospitality. They also
took me to a place with "The best pizza in Africa", and it didn't
disappoint, although my limited travel experience does not qualify me
for such hyperbole. Theirs does. Tomorrow they offered to give me a
tour of the city, followed by a drop-off at the airport. Either they
really liked me, or I looked really pitiful in Nyungwe. Ha.
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